Tile Installation FAQ

Measure the total square footage of the surface you are covering, then add a waste factor on top. For a straight-lay pattern, 10% is typically enough. For diagonal or herringbone layouts, plan on 15% because more cuts are needed and off-cuts are rarely reusable. Natural stone tiles may need an even higher factor if the batch has significant color variation that requires sorting. We calculate this for you during the estimate and give you a specific number to bring to the tile supplier.

Sometimes. The existing tile needs to be firmly bonded — no hollow spots, no cracked tiles, no areas that flex when you walk on them. If the existing surface is solid, tiling over it can work, but it raises the finished floor height, which creates transition issues at doorways and can conflict with appliances or cabinetry. We assess the existing surface during our estimate visit and give you an honest read on whether overlay is appropriate or whether demo is the cleaner choice.

The substrate is whatever the tile is being bonded to — concrete slab, cement board over plywood, an existing tile surface, or sometimes a floated mud bed. For tile to stay put long-term, the substrate has to be clean, flat, and structurally sound. "Flat" in tile work means within 1/8 inch over a 10-foot span for most tile, or 1/16 inch over a 10-foot span for large-format tile (anything over 15 inches in any dimension). We grind down high spots and fill low spots with floor leveler or thinset before laying. In bathrooms, we also apply a waterproofing membrane to the substrate before any tile goes down in wet zones.

Both are fired clay products, but porcelain is fired at a higher temperature and uses a finer clay body, which makes it denser and less porous. The practical difference for homeowners: porcelain has a water absorption rate below 0.5%, making it appropriate for outdoor use, wet areas, and high-traffic floors. Ceramic typically absorbs more water and is better suited for wall applications or interior floors with lighter foot traffic. Porcelain is also harder to cut cleanly, which is why it requires a wet-saw with a diamond blade rather than a basic snap cutter.

Grout type and color are two separate decisions. For type: standard cementitious grout works well for most floor and wall applications, but epoxy grout is worth the extra cost in showers, around kitchen sinks, and anywhere that will see regular water exposure and grease. Epoxy grout is stain-resistant and does not require sealing. For color: lighter grout shows efflorescence (white mineral deposits) less but shows dirt more; darker grout hides dirt but can fade unevenly near windows. Contrasting grout emphasizes the tile pattern; matching grout makes the surface read as one continuous material. We show you samples in context before we mix anything.

Yes, meaningfully so. Large-format tile — anything 24x24 or larger — requires a flatter substrate than standard tile because any variation in the substrate telegraphs directly into the finished surface as lippage. It also requires back-buttering (applying thinset to the back of each tile in addition to the floor) to get full coverage, and the trowel notch size needs to be larger to support the weight without voids. Leveling clip systems are standard practice for large-format work. The cuts also require a longer wet-saw table and sometimes a clamp rather than hand pressure to keep the tile from wandering. All of this is routine for our crew, but it is why large-format jobs take longer per square foot than smaller tile.

A full bathroom retile — demo, waterproofing, tile on walls and floor, grout, and sealer — typically runs two to four days for a standard 50-square-foot bathroom, not counting the 24-hour thinset cure before grouting and the additional cure time before the shower can be used. A simpler floor-only replacement in a bathroom where the walls are staying can be done in a day. We give you a realistic timeline in writing before we start so you can plan around the disruption.

Light foot traffic is generally safe 24 hours after thinset is applied, assuming normal temperature and humidity. Full cure takes 28 days, but for practical purposes the tile is ready for regular use after 72 hours. Grout needs 24 hours before getting wet and 72 hours before being exposed to regular cleaning. Shower use should wait 72 hours after the final grout and sealer application. We tell you the specific hold time for your job based on the products used.

Not usually. Tile installation creates dust during demo and cutting, and thinset and grout have an odor that some people find strong, but neither requires vacating the property. We use dust barriers when cutting near living areas and keep the work zone as contained as possible. If we are demoing an existing floor or shower, the dust output is higher and some homeowners prefer to be out for that phase — we are happy to schedule demo days around your availability.